Ratanakiri

By Joyce Ira

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Kachang Waterfalls

Banlung, Ratanakiri

Heavily jungled and home to 12 different Khmer Loeu ethnic minority groups, Ratanakiri province has a real edge-of-the-world feel to it. Most visitors to Ratanakiri base themselves in Banlung City, the province capital, from where they make excursionsto Khmer Loeu villages and jungle areas, waterfalls, gem mines, and Ratanakiri's famous Yeak Laom volcanic lake. The city of Banlung is fairly small but offers some interesting shopping and a few decent hotels.

Attractions
For nearby destinations a motodup or renting a car is relatively easy. But for more distant expeditions to Khmer Loeu villages, the gem mine, and into the jungle it is best to consult with your hotel/guesthouse for the latest information and conditions, and to arrange transport and guides.

Elephant trekking/rides: 3-hour to 1 day elephant treks to local waterfalls, Khmer Loeu villages and Yeak Laom Lake can be arranged through most guesthouses and hotels.

Gem Mining: Ratanakiri is a gem mining area, evident from the numerous gem dealers in town. In the Bokeo mines 36 km from Banlung, miners work shallow tunnels extracting zircon, some of which end up cut and on display in the Banlung shops. See rubber and coffee plantations, and visit the Sean Lae Waterfalls ('Seven Step Waterfall’) on the way.

"Hill tribe" people and villages: Ratanakiri has a population of about 60,000 'Khmer Loeu' people. ('Khmer Loeu' refers to all of various minority peoples of the different tribes and is a controversial term.) The Khmer Loeu are actually 12 different groups of tribal peoples (including the Tampuan, Krueng, Kavet, Kachok, Charay, Prouv, Phnoung and Lan), living in the jungle and mountains, still practicing many of their traditional ways including slash and burn agriculture, animism, traditional clothing and housing, etc. Tours and treks can be tailored to your requirements, but most guides suggest visiting more than one tribal village over two to four days to see different aspects of tribal life as well as the different peoples. Popular excursions include visiting Tampuan and Charay villages to see their distinctive cemetery totems and long houses, and Krueng villages to see their traditional farming techniques and unique 'boy high houses.'

Phnom Svay and the Reclining Buddha Wat Rahtanharahm ('Wat Aran') sits at the base of Eisey Patamak Mountain about 1 km east of town. Follow the road past the wat and up the mountain. Just below the crest a large reclining Buddha sits amongst a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside.

Phsar Banlung: First thing in the morning, many Khmer Loeu people come to the Phsar Banlung wearing traditional "back strap" baskets laden with vegetable, fruits and forest products which they sell at the market. It can be an interesting and photogenic scene. Most have packed up and left by 10:00AM.

Waterfalls: There are several local waterfalls. They are best during the rainy season when water volume is at its peak. On your way to the local falls you will pass through rubber plantations and rural countryside. On most tours of the area: Cha Ong: 18 meter waterfall in the jungle. The rock behind the falls has been carved out by the action of the water, making it possible to walk behind the falls. 2000 riel entry fee. Kan Chang: Wide, approximately 7-meter tall falls with a large pool at the base where it is possible to swim. 2000 riel entry fee. Ka Tieng: 10 meter falls in a jungle setting. Swimming.

Virachey National Park is 37km northeast of Banlung bordering Laos and Vietnam. It is a heavily jungled and mountainous area and has not been completely explored.

Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake is a 700,000 year old volcanic crater lake in a peaceful jungle setting in the Yeak Laom Commune Protected Area. The lake and the area are considered sacred by many of the Khmer Loeu peoples, and are steeped in local myth and legend. There are a couple of docks on the lakeside and swimming and picnicking are encouraged. The lake is 800 meters in diameter and 47 meters deep, and is ringed by a 2.5 km hiking trail. The Yeak Laom Cultural and Environmental Center on the lake trail displays Khmer Loeu handicrafts and fabrics. 4000 riel entrance fee to lake area. 5km from town.


Overland from Phnom Penh: There are two main legs to the trip, Phnom Penh to Stung Treng and then Stung Treng to Banlung. The first leg usually requires a ferry ride for part of the way in order to bypass the extremely bad road between Kratie and Stung Treng. Either: 1) Take a taxi (2 hours, 8000 riel) or ferry (15,000 riel) to Kampong Cham, and then take a ferry from Kampong Cham to Stung Treng (9 hours, $15), or; 2) Take a taxi (5 hours, 13000 riel) or ferry (5 hours, 30,000 riel) to Kratie, and then take a ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng (5 hours, $7). Once in Stung Treng take a shared taxi or truck from Stung Treng to Banlung (25,000 riel, 3.5 hours in the dry season. 5-10 hours in the wet season.

Getting Around
Motorcycle taxi (motodup), rental motorcycle and bicycle are the primary ways of getting around town and the immediate area. Motodups run 500 - 1500 riel almost anywhere in town and $7-$10 for the whole day (limited to the area around Banlung.) Good English speakers that also act as guides may charge more. A motodup from the airport to town is about 1000 riel.

For motorcycle or bicycle rental, it is easiest to ask at your guesthouse or hotel. 100cc motorcycles are $5/day. There are very few 250cc bikes to rent in town but your hotel can probably find one for you. Bicycle rental is $1/day. There is also a bicycle rental shop near the monument in the center of town. Rental prices of trucks and 4WDs begin around $30-$40/day.

The repair shop just west of the central monument is the only place in town that can service big bikes.




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