Jerusalem Old City
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About
The core of Jerusalem, Old City, has a history that stretches back more than 3,000 years. The present street plan dates largely from Byzantine times, with the walls and ramparts dating back to the 16th century. The crossroad of three continents, Jerusalem has been one of the most fought over cities in human history. Within the walls, the Old City is divided into four vaguely defined quarters: Christian, Armenian, Jewish and Muslim.
You do not need to be Jewish, Christian, or Muslim, or even be overly concerned with religion, to be overwhelmed. Anyone with a sense of history, spirituality or the human species should be absorbed by the tremendous weight of human civilization that cloaks nearly every part of the city. It is an inhabited, living city - not a deserted museum or monument. Humanity's passion play has been constant revival at this location for most of the length of recorded history.
The Old City is fairly diminutive in size compared to modern-day Jerusalem. Despite its small size, or perhaps because of it, the Old City is amazing. Much of the Old City is only accessible by walking because of very narrow streets and steps in the road. This is not a great inconvenience because the Old City is only about 1 kilometer across. The Old City is a maze of twisty alleyways and it's difficult to keep your bearings even with a map. Then again, getting lost is half the fun—you can't get too lost due to its size.
Christian Quarter
Entrance to the Church of the Holy SepulchreThe Christian Quarter, the result of rapid expansion under Byzantine rule, is in the northwest corner of the city and is home to a bewildering array of churches, patriarchates and hospices of the city's many Christian denominations. The quarter is served by the Jaffa Gate and the New Gate.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, (accessible from Christian Quarter Road or a small opening from Souk el-Dabbagha). 5 AM–9 PM daily in the summer, and 4 AM–7 PM in the winter. The Holy Sepulchre is a large building spanning several areas in which Christ is believed to have been crucified and died, buried, and then rose from the dead on the third day. Eastern Orthodox Christians, Roman Catholics, and Oriental Orthodox Christians are each alotted separate areas in the church dating largely to the time of Saladin. The Roman Catholics received their parts due almost purely to the Crusaders and, as all Roman Catholic shrines in the Holy Land, it is under the custodianship of the Terra Sancta (i.e. Franciscans). Parts of the Holy Sepulchre are controlled by several different branches of the Christian Church, who have historically been somewhat at odds with each other. It is important to note that the "church" is not one church in the sense of a building with an altar and podium near the front, but rather a "warehouse" of chuches even for each denomenation present, each has several altars and chapels. The Orthodox Church makes up the largest of the churches there and is situated in the center directly to the east and infront of the Sepulcher as well as at Golgatha. The Armenians have several smaller altars and chapels throughout the ediface as well as a fairly large church called "Saint Helen's" but often refered to as "Saint Gregory (the Illuminator of Armenia)." The Roman Catholics who have two chapels, the Ethiopians one in addition to a monastery on the roof, the Coptics have a small altar behind the Sepulchre itself, and there is a small, yet beautiful Syriac chapel up some stairs near the Coptic one though it is usually closed. There are even what are known as "ecumenical altars" set up on the sides in various areas which are apparantly almost purely decoration and are rarely if ever used. There are many pathways and exploring here makes for a few hours of fun for those who love religious art and architecture. The best time to come is early in the morning and make your way out by 11AM. Even after sundown it is incredibly crowded. Be warned though, if you are wearing shorts, you might be barred access to the building itself but if not, then certainly to individual churches and without a doubt to the sepulchre. Women should have their shoulders covered, no cleavage, and dresses should go below the knee. Do not wear anything which might be considered even the slightest risque. If you do not oblige, they will turn you back. *Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Muristan Rd. 9 AM–1 PM and 1:30 PM–5 PM M–Sa. This church was built by Kaiser Wilhelm II and completed in 1898. The church is most admired by tourists for its bell tower. At the top of its 177 steps, visitors are rewarded with some great views over the Old City. NIS 3 for adults and NIS 2 for students (for bell tower only). NIS 3 for adults and NIS 2 for students (for bell tower only).
Christian Quarter Road. Along with David Street, is the quarter's main shopping thoroughfare. As with most shopping areas in the Christian Quarter, it specializes in religious items as well as handicrafts.
Muristan. Just south of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, this area was once a hospice for pilgrims from Latin-speaking countries. Today it serves as a quiet area of outdoor cafes and small shops centered around an atmospheric central fountain.
Church of St John the Baptist. Closed to the public. Adorned by a silvery dome, this church is visible from the Muristan even though the entrance is fairly difficult to locate. Founded in the 5th century, the church is significant as one of the most ancient churches in Jerusalem. The church was used as a hospice during the Siege of Jerusalem in 1099.
A Walk on the Roofs. It is possible to walk above the central souk along the rooftops of the city. Visitors can climb up to the rooftops via a small staircase at the corner of St Mark's Road and Khabad Street. A second set of stairs leads up from Muristan Road and visitors can exit into the courtyard of Khan el-Sultan, which allows exit onto Chain Street. The view from the rooftops offers delightful views of the bustling streets below, as well as unusual views of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre and the Dome of the Rock.
Muslim Quarter
DOME OF THE ROCKThe Muslim Quarter is the largest and most densely populated quarter of the Old City. The quarter has changed hands many times from the 12th through 15th centuries, resulting in decay since the 16th century. It is one of the most fascinating and least explored parts of Jerusalem.
Noble Sanctuary. 8 AM–2 PM (Ramadan: 7:30 AM–10 AM) Saturday–Thursday, but closed for prayers around noon. The key attraction of the Muslim Quarter, the Noble Sanctuary, also known in Hebrew as Har Ha-Bayit (הר הבית) and in Arabic as Haram al-Sharif (حارم الشريف), is a vast rectangular esplanade in the south-eastern part of the city. Traditionally the site of Solomon's Temple, it later housed the Second Temple which was enlarged by Herod the Great and was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. Hence, this plot is also commonly known to Jews and Christians as the Temple Mount. The site is extremely controversial and access is strictly regulated. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Sanctuary on Fridays and during prayer hours and may well be shut off entirely depending on the political situation of the day; even so, it is well worth making an effort to get in. The only non-Muslim entrance to the Sanctuary is through a wooden bridge leading up to the (ironically named) Moor's Gate on the far south-eastern corner of the Western Wall Plaza. Entry to the Sanctuary itself is free. Presently, entry to the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aqsa Mosque are prohibited.
Dome of the Rock. Known in Hebrew as Kipat Ha-Sela (כיפת הסלע) and in Arabic as Qubbat as-Sakhrah (قبة الصخرة), the Dome of the Rock is one of the first and most familiar achievements of Islamic architecture, the Dome of the Rock marks the spot from where most Muslims believe the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven on the back of his fabulous horse, before returning to earth to record his vision. This association has made the building (together with the neighbouring al-Aqsa Mosque) the third-holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina. Built 687-691 by the ninth Omayyad caliph, Abd al-Malik, the Dome is probably the most spectacular building in the Old City, topped with a dazzling golden dome visible from afar, the interior layered with glittering ceramics, mosaics and Arabic calligraphy. Despite common conceptions, the Dome is not a mosque, but a shrine which protects beneath its high ceiling, a large piece of Rock sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians. The Rock is variously believed to be where Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son, Isaac, where Mohammad left the Earth on his Night Journey (a small indentation was reportedly left by his foot), as well as the site of the Holy of Holies of Herod's Temple.
al-Aqsa Mosque. Construction of the mosque began less than 20 years after the completion of the Dome of the Rock. Al-Aqsa has undergone many changes since its original construction. When the Crusaders captured Jerusalem in the 11th century, al-Aqsa became the headquarters of the Templars. The mosque's design pales in comparison to the Dome of the Rock and is off-limits to non-Muslim visitors.
Museum of Islamic Art. Housed in the Crusader-era refectory of the Knights Templar, this sparsely-filled museum contains a few poorly labeled Islamic architectural remnants. An admission is required, but it is recommended that guests interested in Islamic art visit t
How to get there

Jaffa Gate - on the western side of the city (access from West Jerusalem), next to the Citadel. The busiest of the seven Old City gates, Jaffa Gate has a large taxi rank for easy access in and out of the Old City. The Jaffa Gate has access staircases for the Ramparts Walk (see below).
INSIDE JAFFA GATENew Gate - on the northwestern edge of the Old City, the closest gate to West Jerusalem and convenient for entry to the Christian Quarter. It was the last gate cut into the city wall, in 1889. The New Gate has access to a hospital and some parking just outside the walls.
NEW GATEDamascus Gate - on the northern side of the city (access from East Jerusalem), it is the most monumental of all the gates. The Damascus Gate has access staircases for the Ramparts Walk (see below) via the Roman Square Excavations. A taxi rank and some parking are available just outside the walls. A bus station is located 2 blocks north east of the gate.
Herod's Gate - on the northern side of the city, faces Arab East Jerusalem. Its name originates from the the 1500's when Christian pilgrims wrongly thought that the house inside the gate was the palace of Herod the Great's son.
St Stephen's Gate (also in Hebrew, Lions' Gate) - on the eastern side of the city, it faces the Mount of Olives and is the start of the Via Dolorosa. Its name was adopted in the Middle Ages by Christians who believed that the first Christian martyr, St Stephen, was executed here. Prior to that, however, it had been generally accepted that St Stephen had been stoned to death outside Damascus Gate.
Golden Gate - on the east wall of the Temple Mount, was long ago sealed shut by the Muslims in the 7th century. According to tradition the Messiah will arrive in the Temple via this gate.
Dung Gate - on the southern side of the city, it provides direct access to the Jewish quarter and the Western Wall. This is the terminal of buses 1 and 2. Parking is available outside of the city walls near the City of David.
Zion Gate - on the southern side of the city, it provides direct access to the Armenian quarter from Mount Zion. The outside of the gate is pockmarked by bullet-holes due to fierce fighting here in 1948 between the Israelis and the Jordanians. The Arabic name of the gate is Bab el-Nabi Daud (Gate of the Prophet David), because of its proximity to the traditional location of King David's Tomb. Parking is available just outside the gate.
By bus
38: Jewish Quarter Parking lot - Yafo Street - Davidka Square - Yafo Street - Jewish Quarter Parking lot.
1: CBS - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall)
2: Har Nof - Givat Shaul North - Hamag - Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Golda Meir - Shmuel HaNavi - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall)
3: CBS (Center One) - Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Golda Meir - Shmuel HaNavi - Yecheskel Street (Geula) - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall
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